Appetite for Degustation

The Master’s Technique that Japan Boasts to the World

2009-11-17T21:50:00.011-05:00

As the person who deliberately arranged for his hotel in Tokyo to be near the Tsukiji fish market in order more easily catch its famous early morning tuna auctions, it's not surprising that I would jump at the opportunity observe the cutting of a whole tuna into blocks for sashimi at the Mitsuwa Marketplace...even if it's in New Jersey.

Every year, Mitsuwa presents a tuna cutting demonstration where they cut the largest the bluefin tuna: the giant bluefin tuna (also known as the northern bluefin tuna, or in Japanese 鲔，and more specifically, hon-maguro). I first heard about it when my coworker gave me a Mitsuwa weekly ad which advertised the event. To get a better idea of what I could expect to see, I googled it and came across Greg Takayama's fantastic page about when he and some friends went. It's a popular event. On Sunday afternoon, at the third demonstration of the weekend, there were easily more than 150 people there to watch and many more were there to buy the sashimi and the nigiri sushi that was prepared from the fish.

The demonstration area was a fenced enclosure whose the perimeter was surrounded by people trying to get a good view of the 680 pound fish that was lying on the table. I arrived about 1/2 hour early and was the second or third person back from the front. There was a presenter, one or two people who actually cut the fish, and a few other people who assisted with the packaging and selling of the fish.

A few minutes before the scheduled start time, a commercial fisherman who somehow became friends with the sushi chefs who were also fish cutters, gave an introduction to what we were about to see and was also friendly enough to answer any questions we might have. I learned a couple of things:

At 680 lbs., the fish is one of the largest fish they've ever had.
The fish was probably about 800+ lbs. before it was "dressed," i.e., gutted and the tail and head removed)
The fish had been caught about 4 or 5 days earlier
The fish is not killed until they are ready to drain its blood
The temperature of the fish as it was being cut was about 35-40 degrees
Tuna is worth roughly 10 times more at the beginning of their migration than at the end of it. Since they do not feed while migrating, they lose their fat.
O-toro (the fattiest cut) makes up about 5% of the flesh
Chu-toro (medium fatty cut) makes up about 10-25% of the flesh
The quality of the fish can be determined from examining a cross section of where the tail meets the torso or cross sections at other parts of the torso
The meat around the ribs, labeled kiriotoshi at the store (but called nakaochi), tastes very good and is relatively inexpensive (~$20/lb)
The quality of fish offered for sale was said to be comparable to what you would find at high-end sushi restaurants such as Nobu and Yasuda.

Fascinating stuff. Unfortunately, one very important fact that was not mentioned was that giant bluefin tuna are critically endangered. Although a female can lay 40 million eggs, the population for this fish is declining for the sake of a $7.2 billion industry. Scientists say that the sustainable limit for global fishing for the survival of this species is 7,500 tons. Yet, the International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas, an intergovernmental organization that seeks to manage and conserve tuna species set a limit of 22,500 tons. Sounds like industry lobby got its way.

A large part of this problem is due to the popularity of tuna. It seems like every lunch place in New York sells tuna rolls or tuna nigiri. What a waste. At these places, the fish isn't even worth eating. Yet, everybody does. Conservation groups suggest avoiding this type of fish altogether, but I wonder if we can save the species simply by not having less than mediocre sushi.

As I watched the cutting demonstration, I thought about how gruesome it was. Unless we're tending vegetables in our garden or watching a PETA video, many of us probably do not give much thought to what our food was before it was food. Most of us probably wouldn't go see a cow being slaughtered or watch the butcher in action. Maybe it has something to do with the lack of blood in the fish. Or maybe fish occupies a different position from cows in our hierarchy of sentient animals. After all, there are pescatarians.

Despite the guilt, it was very exciting. Definitely educational and worthwhile. For those you interested, the Monterey Bay Aquarium offers this guide for the sustainable eating of sushi.

On that note, on to the pictures:

First, a picture from the Tsukiji Market in Tokyo, Japan, to give some context as to where bluefin tuna starts its commercial life.

Workers at Tsukiji.

Waiting to spring into action packaging and selling the fish.

Beautiful pattern on the fish's skin. The fish is able to control each of those small fins individually.

The collar bone was the first to be removed.

This knife was virtually a sword.

One of the butcher's tools.

Sawing.

Opening.

This one might as well be called a sword too.

Scraping the meat from the ribs for kiriotoshi. I noticed that the people cutting the fish were saving much of it for themselves

Bored of the chunk of flesh in front of them

You call that a knife?

Removing the spine.

Bloody gloves at the scene.

Each block was about 1/4 lbs. That's about $300 worth of fish on the tray.

Each 1/4 lb of fish could probably produce about 15 pieces of sashimi, which would make a piece of o-toro nigiri just over $1. You'd probably pay over $5 for quality fish at a restaurant. Prior to 1970, the commercial value of this type of fish was 5 cents a pound.

People clamored for the fish. At these prices, it's not surprising. I noticed that specific, presumably better, cuts were handed out to specific people.

Tuna, the other red meat.

Part of the line of people waiting for sushi.

Prêt à manger.

All nice and tidy.

Lamb Takedown - Highline Ballroom, October 4, 2009

2009-10-06T22:51:00.008-04:00

Hi there. Apologies for not posting anything in over one year! The blog was left alone, like an aging cheese or wine, but never forgotten...

Recently, I found myself eating less meat. Not for any particular grand purpose, but simply because I did not have the taste for it. It all came to an end this past weekend with the Mid-Autumn Festival on Saturday (the modern tradition in Taiwan is to grill meat on that day) and the Lamb Takedown the next day.

The Takedown is an amateur cooking event that proclaims itself to be "America's Most Important Food Competition". Each event is centered around a different theme (chili, cookies, etc.) . This time, it was lamb. The American Lamb Board sponsored the event and provided 15 pounds of lamb meat to 20 teams of participants to do whatever they wanted with the lamb. With an admission fee of $15, roughly 150 people came to sample (or gorge) on the 20 bite-size lamb dishes.

Basically, Takedown attendees walk around a buffet and are given what each station has to offer. There were two sections to the buffet, with 10 stations in each. Like any buffet, food piled-up on the plate quickly. By the time I had picked-up 5 or 6 items, my plate was more or less full. However, to avoid having to wait in line for the section again, I added to the plate until all 10 stations were covered.

The creations varied from the more familiar (lamb with cumin, lamb cooked with Meditteranean spices, and lamb roti, for example) to the less typical (bean salad with lamb, lamb with cornbread, and banh mi sandwiches with lamb). Most of the chefs braised their lamb. I believe three teams made lamb tacos. All of them were very friendly.

Most of the dishes were good, but only a few of them really showcased lamb's distinctive taste and even then, it was mild. Sometimes, I felt like I was simply eating beef. I don't know whether the lack of the lamb character was due to the preparation, the cut, or the source. I suspect it's probably because the lamb is American. The lamb I usually see in the supermarket is from New Zealand. I remember once I had bought American lamb, and did not find it particularly flavorful.

While we were eating, the MC of the event kept reminding us to vote for our favorite dishes. It is a competition after all! Voting was haphazard. It was hard to remember what each dish was. I had to revisit the stations to identify what I ate. Also, people could vote more than once, and I'm sure not everybody voted. It's OK, though, it's not a serious competition.

Representatives from each team went on stage to introduce themselves, what they made, and why they made it. I recall a few:

- One person had visited Northwest China and wanted to represent the Uighurs

- Another wanted to try something different

- A third person just wanted to prove she could make a lamb dish and carry it to the Highline Ballroom by herself

Then came the award ceremony. First, three professional critics (Josh Ozersky of The Feedbag, Daniel Maurer of NY Magazine, and George Motz of the NY Food Film Festival) revealed their three favorite dishes. Then, came the audience award. Here are the winners:

Judges:
1st: Aaron Ginsberg - Barbacoa Style Lamb Tacos w 3 Chile Salsa
2nd: Kate Bryant - Pulled Lamb Shank with Pears
3rd: Jeff Allen and Diella Koberstein - Chinese Xi’an Spicy Cumin Lamb with Pickled Jalapenos

People’s Choice!
1st: Jeff Allen and Diella Koberstein
2nd: Bronwyn Flemming Jones - Wam Bam Thank You Lamb Tajine
3rd : Mark Bernal - Yang Rou Chuan (羊肉串）

The winner of the Judge's award won $50, and the winner of the People's Choice won $100.

This was the first time I had been to a Takedown event. It was a little disorganized, but being around others who also paid money to enjoy an amateur cooking competition was just flat out fun. Unfortunately, I wasn't very organized in taking notes or pictures this time.

Thanks go to my friend Cindy for organizing this outing and to two of her friends, Harsh and Juan Marcos, for coming and providing humor that lamb-filled afternoon.

There are a few more pictures below, but visit my Flickr set for the event for more photos. Also, the Village Voice has great photos of the food.

Strange Fruit: Krispy Kreme Cheeseburgers

2008-08-28T14:46:00.002-04:00

It's exactly what it sounds like.

http://incredimazing.com/page/Mmmm_Krispy_Kreme_Cheeseburgers

Strange Fruit: Food that Eats Itself

2008-08-26T19:44:00.002-04:00

Not only is food sometimes anthropomorphic, sometimes it eats itself.

Check out this great collection of photos by Flickr user agmilmoe

http://www.flickr.com/photos/agmilmoe/sets/72157594356771968/

Drink Up: Ginger Beer

2008-08-24T20:42:00.013-04:00

Part of my job involves communicating with foreign law firms. One of our associates in Australia sent us a bunch of foodstuffs from the Land Down Under. His cultural exchange package included a ginger beer named Bundaberg. My only experience with ginger beer up until this point was from a few years ago at a Caribbean restaurant. Now that I think about it, it makes sense for Australia to have ginger beer too since ginger beer originated in England in the 1700s.

The name "ginger beer" is a bit of a misnomer. Ginger beer is not an alcoholic beverage...at least, not these days. Traditionally, ginger beer involved fermenting a mixture of ginger, sugar, and water with ginger beer plant, which is not a plant, but a symbiotic union between the yeast Saccharomyces florentinus and the bacteria Lactobacillus hilgardii. The fermentation process produces carbon dioxide and ethanol and qualifies the beverage as a beer. Additional flavorings such as lemon, sassafras, or licorice could be added as well.

These days, ginger beer is brewed from the same basic mixture of ginger, sugar, and water but not fermented. It is carbonated by the addition of pressurized carbon dioxide and contains no alcohol. Sounds a lot like ginger ale, no?

Ginger ale originated in Ireland as a soda drink. How is modern ginger beer different from ginger ale? They aren't much different, except for the fact that ginger beer has a stronger ginger taste to it, which means it probably has more ginger in it.

How did ginger beer lose its punch? In England, an 1855 law that taxed beverages with more than 2% alcohol was issued and hence the transformation to a non-alcoholic beverage. In the United States, ginger beer's decline in popularity was partly due to the Temperance Movement and the Prohibition.

While ginger beer is a rare sight these days, it used to be a lot more popular. According to this article by the Federation of Historical Bottle Collectors, ginger beer was the most popular beverage in England for 150 years.

For those of us who want to experience authentic ginger beer, there are many recipes on the internet.

Here are three to get you started:

http://www.jeffreymorgenthaler.com/2008/how-to-make-your-own-ginger-beer/
http://www.homemade-dessert-recipes.com/ginger-beer-recipes.html
http://wildschwein.wordpress.com/2007/07/11/ye-olde-fashioned-homemade-ginger-beer-theory-and-practice/

The first two are probably a little more practical to make since they do not require ginger beer plant. However, if you want to include ginger beer plant, there is an active Yahoo! group devoted entirely to ginger beer plant where you can find some information about where to get it.

Here is the link to the group:

http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/GingerBeerPlant/

I'd be curious to know if anybody has ever had or made authentic ginger beer before. Please share any stories you might have! I'll follow-up if I come across more ginger beer or make some myself.

Sources:

http://www.fohbc.com/BandE_Article4.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ginger_beer
http://inventors.about.com/library/inventors/blginger_al.htm

The 32nd Flavor

2008-07-21T01:41:00.007-04:00

I am visiting Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and Taipei at the end of August. I was reading my Time Out Guide to Tokyo and came across a brief mention of fried chicken ice cream.

A quick Google search revealed that that's not all I have to look forward to

http://subversivewriter.wordpress.com/2007/08/08/japanese-ice-cream-flavors-squid-eel-goat-not-for-the-faint-of-heart/

I've noticed that I seem to have written a lot about Japanese food...

Review: Japa Dog

2008-07-04T19:58:00.004-04:00

The Japanese have taken something foreign to their culture and made it distinctly Japanese -- Again. I love it.

As part of travel planning, the epicurious are sure to make a list of places where they want to eat without any regard to proximity to their hotel. Once in the foreign city, however, practical considerations set in, and the list is pared down to the more easily accessible places. On my recent trip to Vancouver, I lucked out. A place that I wanted to try, the Japa Dog hot dog stand, happened to be right outside my hotel.

Japa Dog sells Japanese-style hot dogs and is a block from the main strip, Robson Street, in downtown Vancouver. The first thing you notice about the cart is that it is surrounded by people eager to place their orders and to pick up their orders. A blue rope is stretched out near the cart with the intended purpose of getting customers to queue up alongside it. However, because the side of the cart from which customers order seems to alternate after every third order, it's never clear whether the rope is there to line up those who have yet to place the orders or those who are waiting to pick up their order.

As you get closer to the cart, the next thing you notice about Japa Dog is that it relishes (no pun intended) its publicity and its celebrity customers.

Like the website, the cart excitedly lists when it has appeared in the media and who has had a Japa Dog, even mentioning what kind of hot dog the celebrity ate.

Japa Dog offers ten types of hot dogs. All the sausages are all freshly or recently grilled and the buns are toasted. Should you choose one of the six more traditional offerings, like the all-beef hot dog, your choice of condiments go beyond the standard ketchup, mustard, sauerkraut, and relish. There are several types of mustard, Asian chili sauces, and peppers with which you can top your dog.

The real reason why you would go to Japa Dog, however, is for the Japanese-style hot dogs:

Misomayo - turkey hot dog, kaiware sprouts, miso-sesame sauce, and japanese mayo - This dog was very mild in flavor. As it always is, the turkey sausage was tough. It is probably a good introduction for anyone not completely sold on the idea of a Japanese hot dog.

Terimayo - all beef hot dog, nori, chopped onion, and teriyaki mayo - The teriyaki mayo and the beef worked well together. The nori didn't add too much to the overall flavor other than making it a little more Japanese tasting. Still, it was good.

Oroshi - bratwurst (pork), daikon, scallions, and special soy sauce - This was by far my favorite. The flavors of all the ingredients were balanced and combined well to make a great tasting hot dog. This one is a must try.

The people working the cart are extremely friendly.

Since the cart is on a street corner with no benches nearby, you have no choice but to stand and eat your dog, sit on the steps of the wine shop that the cart is directly in front of, or sit on the edge of one of the concrete enclosures between the steps which hold some grass and trees and hope that the sprinklers aren't on. The wine shop doesn't seem to mind all the people hanging around eating hot dogs. All the better, I don't want to be hassled while enjoying my Japa Dog.

Niboshi (煮干し)

2008-06-23T01:35:00.005-04:00

Fishy Memory

One of my earliest memories is of these 3-4 cm long little fish which are used to make dashi, a soup or cooking stock used in Japanese cooking. Growing up in a family of recent immigrants from Taiwan, I remember being fascinated by the plastic packages of small fish. I don't recall ever eating anything made with the fish.

At age 5, it didn't occur to me at the time how bizarre the fish must seem to Americans. Looking back, it is a little strange that this product was available in Columbus, OH in the early 1980s.

When I visited Taiwan last year, I went to a seafood marketplace which sold various types of dried fish and shrimp for use in cooking.

The conical piles of dried seafood did not seem strange to me. In fact, they felt comforting.

When used in making dashi, the heads are pinched off and the innards are removed in order to remove bitterness. The niboshi are then boiled in water and strained.

Some people have found creative ways of using niboshi, such as promoting it as the basis of a new holiday which would replace Valentine's Day. If this trend caught on, I would probably then not be the only one with memories involving these small fish.

Putting Indecision in Context

2008-06-18T23:37:00.008-04:00

What kind of indecision will we be having tonight?

At a restaurant, it is the curiosity about the choices that cause indecision. "Red miso soup or white miso soup? Both sound interesting. Which are you having?"

At home, it is ambivalence resulting from the familiarity of choices that leads to indecision. "Red miso or white miso? Didn't we have red miso yesterday?"

At the grocery store, it is the unfamiliarity with the choices that cause indecision. "What's the difference between these misos? Which one am I supposed to buy?"

Saba Battera - Sushi in a Box

2008-06-15T20:00:00.000-04:00

New Jersey teaches a New Yorker learns something new about sushi.

At the Mitsuwa Marketplace in Edgewater, NJ, I came across a tray of sushi labeled "Saba Battera." I knew that "saba" was the Japanese word for mackerel, but I did not recognize the second word. Since I've accepted the inevitability of encountering unfamiliar words when eating Japanese, what really intrigued me about this sushi was not so much the name, but rather, the fact that the rice was yellow and was speckled with scallions. The reasonable assumption was that "battera" refered to the jaundiced rice. It didn't.

Battera sushi is a type of hako sushi ("box sushi") which in turn is a type of sushi from Osaka named oshi sushi ("pressed sushi"). The word "battera" is derived from the Portuguese (the first Europeans to reach Japan) word bateria, which means small boat. According to the Sushi Encyclopedia, an Osaka restaurant, in 1893, began using "battera" to refer to its gizzard shad sushi because it resembled a boat. The term evolved, and today, battera sushi refers exclusively to boxed sushi topped with mackerel. Considering this, it was redundant for the label to refer to its contents as "saba battera".

As seen in the photograph, the sushi is much more brick-shaped than the hand-molded nigiri sushi with which most Americans are more familiar. With hako sushi, the rice is lightly pressed into a box-shaped mold and any toppings are laid and pressed upon the rice. This solid block is then cut into rectangular pieces.

Sushi Monster describes the making of battera sushi slightly differently. According to that site, a layer of asipidistra leaves are first placed at the bottom of the box. The next layer is the mackerel, and the last is the rice. This arrangement helps preserve the mackerel because it has minimal contact with air and is in direct contact with the vinegared rice. Sushi Monster also says that the mackerel is salted, then rinsed with a vinegar mixture. As I researched for this article, I learned that mackerel is almost universally first cured before serving. Eating raw mackerel is unsanitary, and is only done by fisherman and those in close proximity to where the fish is caught.

What of the yellow rice and scallions? I wasn't able to find information via Google about it, which suggests that it probably is not a common or recognized variant of sushi.

So, how did my $6.99 saba battera taste? As good as its vehicular equivalent, the Volvo, is curvy. The special rice added nothing to the flavor, and the fish was tough and dry in texture and bland in taste. This, of course, is not the result of the fact that it was battera sushi. The battera/hako process only has to do with shaping the sushi and has nothing to do with anything that would affect the flavor.

I'll be going to Japan for about a week in September. I'll be sure to try battera sushi with uncured mackerel and other non-nigiri sushis. As soon as I do, I'll share my experiences with everybody.

Arigato gozaimasu for reading.

Thanks to:

http://www.sushimonsters.com/tutorials-start-types-oshi.php
http://www.sushiencyclopedia.com/sushi/types_of_sushi.html
http://www.sushiencyclopedia.com/blog/2007/10/04/portuguese-sushi-battera/
http://www.sushiencyclopedia.com/sushi_menu/mackerel_sushi.html
http://www.thenibble.com/reviews/main/fish/seafood/sushi-glossary.asp

Review: Soto

2008-06-10T22:34:00.005-04:00

Behind the anonymous façade of Soto, the kitchen overshadows the sushi bar.

When I decided to go to Soto, I had planned on having sushi, but two-thirds of the menu at Soto is not sushi. The brilliant items on the first two menu pages lured me away from the sushi bar to the kitchen.

Most of the Japanese ingredients in the descriptions of the offerings from the kitchen were familiar to me, so I sought out what I considered the most creative combinations.

Hokki Nuta - thinly sliced sea clam with myoga ginger shoots and sesame, marinated in sweet miso mustard sauce - The acidity of the lime (seen in the picture, but not mentioned in the menu) made this a good opener. However, the lime overpowered all the other flavors, which is a shame because i really wanted to know what myoga ginger and miso mustard sauce tasted like. Still, I'll remember this dish for its soft texture and pleasant taste.

Shiro Ebi Tar Tare - seasonal white sweet shrimp with yuzu, shaved cured mullet roe, caviar, ikura, served with shiitake ginger broth - The sweetness of the finely chopped ebi was a perfect complement to the cool broth. The roes added just the right amount of saltiness and bursts of flavor. Interesting how the menu refers to fish eggs three different ways.

Steamed Lobster With Uni Mousse - layers of steamed Maine lobster and uni mousse in lotus wrap garnished with smoked uni and caviar - The lobster had the paradoxically perfectly firm, yet soft, texture that only well-cooked shellfish can achieve. The uni mousse was creamy in both taste and texture, pairing well with the lobster while remaining distinct. I felt as if I was eating soft and firm pillows. The lotus root provided a distracting vegetal firmness. Something crunchy would have better suited the lobster and the mousse.

From the sushi bar, 30 different types of fish were available, with several of them being varieties of the same type (2 types of eel, 2 types of uni, etc) and a few others being seared. What I had was fresh, but did not melt in my mouth. The rice was firmer than at most other sushi places, but still maintained a good taste. As is the practice with most higher-end sushi restaurants, the nigiri was topped with wasabi. What was new to me was that the nigiri was served tinged with soy sauce. Do other places do this?

Service was attentive, but not overly helpful in guiding you through the indecision inducing menu. The kitchen items were expensive ($28 for the lobster with uni mousse). Two omakases were available: 8 pieces of sushi for $45 and 12 for $58. A good sake and beer list completed the menu.

Date of visit: 6/7/08

Food Rating: 8/10

Service Rating: 6/10
Decor Rating: 7/10

Overall Rating: 8/10

Mortadella, a Phony Baloney?

2008-06-08T13:41:00.004-04:00

"It's not bologna."
"But, it's like bologna, right?"
"It's not bologna."

A few weeks ago, a sandwich made with a deli meat with a macabre-sounding Italian name, mortadella, was the obvious choice for lunch over the other sandwiches made with more mundane meats. While the name alone was enough to get me to pick the sandwich, I had no idea what mortadella was.

The chef explained that it was ground, cured, and encased pork which has been spiced. He added that it was similar to bologna, but differed because of the presence of cubes of fat within the meat. As you can see from the picture above, the fat is fairly prominent. My own research later revealed that mortadella must contain consist of at least 15% fat cubes and that it originated from Bologna, Italy.

As I shared this newfound knowledge with a lunch-seeking coworker, the manager of the cafeteria passed by and just happened to hear me say "It's like bologna."

"It's not bologna," he interjected.
"But it's like bologna, right?" I negotiated.
"It's not bologna."

While insisting it was not bologna, he did not deny it was not like bologna. It may be common to mince words at a law firm, but please, not in the cafeteria! What causes a man to be so adamant distinguishing mortadella from bologna? Was there a mortadella lobby? Turns out, there is.

The Consorzio Produttori Mortadella Bologna (Mortadella Bologna Product Consortium) established in 2001, along with the Ministero delle Politiche Agricole e Forestali (Ministry of Agricultural and Forest Policies), regulates the quality of mortadella, and promotes and protects the mortadella name. The consortium is made up of 30 companies who produce about 95% of the mortadella. From where does this consorzio derive its authority to execute its mission? From where mortadella name derive its right to protection?

Many food and wine products are named for their place of origin. For example, Bordeaux wines are named as such because they are produced in the Bordeaux region of France. Parmagiano-Reggiano cheese is from the Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Bologna, in Emilia-Romagna, and Mantova regions in Lombardy, Italy.

Countries in Europe have had a history of protecting, within their national boundaries, the name and reputation of their regionally produced food products. The government offered a certification to products which met defined geographic and quality standards. This certification assured the consumer that the product they were purchasing was a genuine product of a certain quality from that region. In France, the certification system is called Appellation d'origine contrôlée. The Italians call their system Denominazione di origine protetta.

The name used to identify a product from a particular place is the geographical indication (GI).

In 1992 (a strange date since the EU did not come into existence until 1993), legislation came into force in the European Union which offered the opportunity for products which enjoyed protection as national geographical indications to be protected throughout the European Union. The purpose of the legislation was to protect the regional products of a EU member country in an increasingly borderless economic environment.

The legislation created a number of categories under which protection could be sought:

Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) - the product must have been "produced, processed and prepared in a given geographical area using recognised know-how"; for example, Roquefort cheese (France), Jersey Royal Potatoes (UK)
Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) - the "geographical link must occur in at least one of the stages of production, processing or preparation. Furthermore, the product can benefit from a good reputation"; for example; Welsh lamb (UK), Scottish farmed salmon (UK)
Traditional Speciality Guaranteed (TSG) - -does not refer to the origin but highlights traditional character, either in the composition or means of production "(Mozzarella cheese, Jamón Serrano.

The criteria for similar national certifications may have varied from country to country, but these certifications are standardized throughout the EU community. A list of items that are protected under PDO, PGI, or TSG can be found at the European Commission's Agricultural and Rural Development website. The designations are valid and enforceable throughout the EU.

The official IGP seal (in Italian)

The European Union has certified mortadella as a Protected Geographical Indication, or in Italian, "Indicazione Geografica Protetta". Along with the Istituto Nord Est Qualità (Northeast Quality Institute), the Consorzio Produtttori Mortadella Bologna ensures that the anything being sold under the mortadella name is indeed mortadella. A producer of a mortadella-like product in Spain may not call his product mortadella.

Following the trend towards a more global economy, the territorial coverage of protection of geographical indications has expanded. In 1994, the World Trade Organization (WTO) introduced the Agreement of Trade Related Aspects of Intellectual Property (TRIPS). The agreement dictates that member states must "provide the legal means for parties to prevent the use of any means in the designation or presentation of a good that indicates or suggests that the good in question originates in a geographical area other than the true place of origin in a manner which misleads the public as to the geographical origin of the good." In other words, each WTO member must offer laws which prevent a producer from passing off his product as being from some place which it is not. TRIPS does not offer additional criteria for what qualifies for protection or new categories of classification. It simply requires a means of protection.

What about enforcement? A producer, or a representative of a producer, such as the consorzio, is able to bring suit against an imitator in a national or European court. However, it's not entirely clear to me what enforcement options there are under TRIPS. Must each WTO member have to recognize the GI of another member state? Could the consorzio bring a suit against an American company which made and sold a product named mortadella? Some people I spoke to who are familiar with trademark law were not certain the Italians could.

I can't be certain whether my mortadella was actually mortadella. From appearances, it fit the description of mortadella, but I'm not able to tell without seeing the packaging. Was the mortadella like bologna? Yes, maybe a little spicier, and definitely more fatty. Was it bologna? If it was a true mortadella, then technically, no. The bologna we know is ground pork sausage made from lesser quality scraps of meat which does not contain cubes of fat. There is not much information on the internet concerning the origins of bologna, but it does appear that the Italians do not use the term "bolgona" in reference to encased meat sausages. Bologna, at best, is a poor imitation of mortadella.

I'm pretty sure that the manager of the cafeteria was not thinking of protecting the good name of mortadella when he corrected me. I think he was simply trying to not give the impression he was offering bologna as a deli meat. Either way, the consorzio thanks him. And I thank him for making me think about my lunch.

Update 6/18/08: I was told that the mortadella was made by an American company in the style of mortadella. So, technically, it was not mortadella.

Sources:

http://ec.europa.eu/agriculture/foodqual/quali1_en.htm
http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/recipes/hungrymind/designationorigin.html
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-mortadella.htm
http://www.foodreference.com/html/fmortadella.html
http://www.foodsubs.com/MeatcureCC.html
http://www.lifeinitaly.com/food/Mortadella.asp
http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indicazione_Geografica_Protetta
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geographical_indication
http://www.wto.org/english/docs_e/legal_e/legal_e.htm#TRIPs
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bologna_sausage
http://theoldfoodie.blogspot.com/2005/12/some-baloney-about-bologna.html

A Simple Meal

2008-06-02T01:10:00.009-04:00

On Sunday, I was reminded of the joy, comfort, and satisfaction of a self-prepared, home-cooked meal. I've missed out for a very long time.

Photo: Spaghetti topped with spicy Italian sausage and marinara sauce "fortified" with fresh baby portabella and porcini mushrooms, onions, garlic, basil, parsley, and tomatoes

Review: Eleven Madison Park

2008-05-17T22:40:00.014-04:00

Eleven Madison Park's "modern, pure and market-driven French cuisine" is enjoyable enough, but overall the dining experience disappoints.

I had been eager to visit this well-received Flatiron-area restaurant for quite some time. Upon arrival, two hostesses pleasantly greeted my friend Heather and me and dutifully took our rain-sprinkled umbrellas. Housed in the North Building of the Met Life Tower, the restaurant is decorated in an art deco style. My excitement found space for release in the airy, cavernous interior with its 35-foot high ceilings and majestically tall windows.

After being seated, we were promptly presented with a list containing, among other apéritifs, a dozen or so cocktails. My choice, the Monkey Gland (made from gin, orange juice, with a splash of absinthe and grenadine), was flavorful and well-balanced. Heather's, the Rose Cocktail, (dry vermouth, gin, apricot brandy, lemon juice, grenadine syrup and powdered sugar) was also perfectly mixed.

While we enjoyed our cocktails, I noticed the staff's attentiveness to when someone stepped away from his table (although as the evening progressed, the staff paid less attention to this). In the diner's absence, napkins were refolded. When the diner returned, someone was ready to pull the chair away from the table, or in our case pull the table away from the bench. Being impressed soon gave way to the first hiccup of the evening. Though we were leisurely sipping our cocktails, we felt we should have been given the menu a while ago. It turns out this was representative of Eleven Madison Park's biggest problem -- pacing.

We actually didn't need the menu, since we had planned beforehand to order the 11-course Gourmand tasting menu with wine pairing. For every course, there was an unacceptably long delay of over ten minutes between the wine pour and the food arriving at the table. Because of the stingy pours and the long waits, by the time the food was served, the wine was almost certainly already half-consumed. After finishing the course's small-portion of food, there was no wine to hold me over until the next course which also took an indefinite eternity to come out. Only management knows whether the delays are a deliberate psychological strategy intended to build anticipation for the next course.

We opened with five types of hors d'oeuvres (see photo above). I do not recall exactly what each item was, but the gruyère cheese gougères stood out. They were were topped with a few large grains of salt, which added a nice accent, but may have been too much salt.

First Course - Royal Sterling Caviar - Soft Poached Knoll Crest Farm Egg and Tapioca - The course should have been rightfully named for the poached egg since it was the overwhelmingly dominant part of the course. The egg was pleasantly warm and the tapioca pearls added some needed texture to the run of the yolk. The caviar was inconsequential.

Second Course - Heirloom Beets - Liquid Sphere with Lynnhaven Chèvre Frais - This course has its roots in molecular gastronomy. Beets and goat cheese were each transformed into liquid spheres which rested in a puddle of olive oil in ceramic spoons. The beet sphere tasted more distinctly like its original source material. The olive oil was very light and did not add much.

Third Course - Cape Cod Bay Crab - Roulade with Avocado, Lime, and Yogurt - This refreshing course was fantastic. The crab was well textured.

Fourth Course - Foie Gras - Terrine with Rhubarb, Celery, and Pickled Ramps - This foie gras was completely disappointing. The terrine tasted bland and was too firm. The accompanying foam was too airy and gritty.

Fifth Course - Wild Atlantic Halibut - Mi-cuit with Cauliflower, Green Almonds, and Razor Clams - I only remember that I enjoyed this course.

Sixth Course - Nova Scotia Lobster - Poached with Wild Nettles and Oregon Morels - The flavorful lobster soaked in a frothy pea soup which was pleasantly sweet.

Seventh Course - Niman Ranch Pork Belly - Sous-vide with Peas à la Française - The pork was very tender and moist, but not very flavorful.

Eighth Course - Black Angus Beef - Herb Roasted with Asparagus, Parmesan and Sauce Bordelaise - Again, the beef was very tender, but not very flavorful.

Ninth Course - Fromage - Selection of Artisanal Cheeses (see photo below) - The cheeses were wheeled to the table on a cart. Rather than explaining what was available, we were asked what we kind of cheeses we liked. Not really being able to articulate in any specific way what kind of cheese we liked, we asked the waiter to choose six different cheeses for us. The cheeses were good and each cheese was well-paired with an accoutrement, either a fruit spread or a nuts. The sommelier paired wines according to our selection. My only complaint about this course was that the service felt awkward. It was not really clear what our options were or what the waiter was choosing for us, and it took a really long time.

Tenth Course - "Vacherin" - Strawberries, Basil, and Black Pepper - The cheese was accompanied by a strawberry sauce. These three flavors worked very well together. I was surprised.

Eleventh Course - Chocolate-Peanut Butter - Palette with Popcorn Ice Cream - This was a wonderful dessert. the chocolate and peanut butter both had a bit of a crunch to them. The popcorn ice cream tasted exactly like it sounds like it would. I would have preferred that this course was switched with the tenth. It would have been nicer to end with something refreshing. If the point was to end with a course that would go well with coffee, the mignardises below would have served that purpose.

We closed with an array of six mignardises. I suppose they could have been called petit sixes? They were all very good, but I question the inclusion of chocolate-peanut butter morsel, a repeat of the last course.

The wines paired with the courses were a variety of wines from around Europe. Unfortunately, being mediocre and poorly paired, they did not add anything to the meal (except extra cost). There was one unforgivable incident relating to the wine that must be mentioned. At one point, my wine glass from the previous course was still on the table along with the new glass for the next wine. The sommelier mistakenly poured the new wine into the old glass. After he finished his standard pour, he realized his mistake and summoned for the glass to be taken away. He poured into the new glass, and ran out of wine. At this point, my glass was only at half of his standard pour, but he did not return to fill the glass.

At the end of the evening Chef Daniel Humm made the rounds to the tables to exchange pleasantries. He seemed friendly enough, but I didn't think it was appropriate to discuss my criticisms with him.

I should also mention that my stomach became sick shortly after leaving the restaurant. I am not certain what caused it, but the egg is a likely culprit.

The food was enjoyable enough, but it certainly did not match up to the caliber I expected based on the price and the majority of reviews. I would have liked to have learned a little more about the market-driven aspect of the menu. Were most things local? I would not say Eleven Madison Park's menu can distinguish itself from the myriad of other modern French restaurants.

The staff was friendly, but I do not feel that good service was provided. We were always left to wait for food to arrive, and what the sommelier did was simply unacceptable. If they were able to improve the service and pacing of the meal, then the overall experience would be much more enjoyable.

Date of visit: 5/16/08

Time of Reservation: 7:30 PM

Length of meal: 3 1/2 hours

Food Rating: 6/10

Service Rating: 4/10
Decor Rating: 9/10

Overall Rating: 5/10

Preparation of the cheese plates:

The beautiful dining room: