Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Review: Soto

Behind the anonymous façade of Soto, the kitchen overshadows the sushi bar.

When I decided to go to Soto, I had planned on having sushi, but two-thirds of the menu at Soto is not sushi. The brilliant items on the first two menu pages lured me away from the sushi bar to the kitchen.

Most of the Japanese ingredients in the descriptions of the offerings from the kitchen were familiar to me, so I sought out what I considered the most creative combinations.

Hokki Nuta from Soto

Hokki Nuta - thinly sliced sea clam with myoga ginger shoots and sesame, marinated in sweet miso mustard sauce - The acidity of the lime (seen in the picture, but not mentioned in the menu) made this a good opener. However, the lime overpowered all the other flavors, which is a shame because i really wanted to know what myoga ginger and miso mustard sauce tasted like. Still, I'll remember this dish for its soft texture and pleasant taste.

Shiro Ebi Tar Tare from Soto

Shiro Ebi Tar Tare - seasonal white sweet shrimp with yuzu, shaved cured mullet roe, caviar, ikura, served with shiitake ginger broth - The sweetness of the finely chopped ebi was a perfect complement to the cool broth. The roes added just the right amount of saltiness and bursts of flavor. Interesting how the menu refers to fish eggs three different ways.

Steamed Lobster With Uni Mousse from Soto

Steamed Lobster With Uni Mousse - layers of steamed Maine lobster and uni mousse in lotus wrap garnished with smoked uni and caviar - The lobster had the paradoxically perfectly firm, yet soft, texture that only well-cooked shellfish can achieve. The uni mousse was creamy in both taste and texture, pairing well with the lobster while remaining distinct. I felt as if I was eating soft and firm pillows. The lotus root provided a distracting vegetal firmness. Something crunchy would have better suited the lobster and the mousse.

From the sushi bar, 30 different types of fish were available, with several of them being varieties of the same type (2 types of eel, 2 types of uni, etc) and a few others being seared. What I had was fresh, but did not melt in my mouth. The rice was firmer than at most other sushi places, but still maintained a good taste. As is the practice with most higher-end sushi restaurants, the nigiri was topped with wasabi. What was new to me was that the nigiri was served tinged with soy sauce. Do other places do this?

Service was attentive, but not overly helpful in guiding you through the indecision inducing menu. The kitchen items were expensive ($28 for the lobster with uni mousse). Two omakases were available: 8 pieces of sushi for $45 and 12 for $58. A good sake and beer list completed the menu.

Date of visit: 6/7/08
Food Rating: 8/10
Service Rating: 6/10
Decor Rating: 7/10
Overall Rating: 8/10


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